Chapter 34: Lisbon, Portugal

Lisbon Chronicles: Tales of a Timeless City

Glimpses of Lisboa.

It was dark that night when a sudden surge of waves crashing against the boat awakened the captain, who had been in a deep sleep. They were in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. His voyage had begun a few weeks ago, and they were now approaching the southern tip of Africa. This was the first voyage for both the captain and his crew. For most, it was frightening to travel to the next town in their day, but Vasco da Gama had the courage to leap into the unknown. He had to face the waves crashing against the boat; fortunately, their ship was equipped with the best technology of the time and they were using a compass to head toward what was then the richest nation on Earth. We are talking about the end of the 15th century, around 1499. Now that might help clarify who this is about: Vasco da Gama!

"I am not afraid of the darkness. Real death is preferable to a life without living". - Vasco Da Gama.

Vasco da Gama was born into a noble family; his father had connections to the king. When the time was right and Vasco da Gama was in his twenties, he received the opportunity to embark on an adventurous exploration to trade with India. At that time, people were aware of a country filled with wealth, gold, and spices. Everyone was attempting to reach India to engage in trade or obtain rare metals. Curiosity was key for Vasco da Gama, and his determination to cross the seven seas to reach India is commendable.

With considerable help from Muslims, Arabs, and Africans, he found the ideal route and arrived in India around 1499. His first voyage landed in Cochin, located in the southeastern part of India in the state of Kerala. Initially, he attempted to trade with the local kings, but he did not realize that they required gold in exchange for spices.

At that time, India was primarily made up of princely states or provinces, each ruled by its own king. Vasco da Gama was struck by the richness of India; even the small kingdom of Cochin boasted considerable wealth, which sparked his curiosity. However, he was not welcomed initially due to the lack of rare metals to barter, and he was told to return with more valuable goods to exchange for spices. The spices he encountered were astonishing, as they were exceedingly rare in Portugal and, for that matter, in Europe.

Despite the challenges, he managed to obtain some spices and, after much difficulty, began his journey back to Portugal. Vasco da Gama was the first European to reach India via the sea route. Out of the four ships he had, many of his crew members succumbed to disease and conflicts with the locals. Nevertheless, Vasco da Gama survived and successfully brought some of the goods back to Portugal, where he was hailed as one of the great explorers of that time.

During the 14th and 15th centuries, Europe was emerging from famine and social unrest, which fueled exploration as Europeans sought treasures from around the world. All eyes were on India, as tales of magical cities filled with gold, diamonds, and rare metals spread. The story of Columbus is somewhat similar; during the late 15th century, he set sail for India but ended up in what is now the West Indies. Until his death, he believed he had reached India, leading to the term "Indians" being applied to the indigenous peoples of the Americas and the Caribbean being referred to as the West Indies.

As more Europeans began to explore and uncover riches, cities in Europe prospered. This ultimately led to the colonization of vast lands in Asia, the Americas, Africa, and the Middle East.

Returning to Portugal has led to a sudden surge in the spice trade with India. Vasco da Gama returned with a much larger army and additional resources to confront the local king, intending to topple his rule and occupy the land. He began moving north from Cochin to what is now known as Goa. Vasco da Gama and his successors ruled Goa as a Portuguese colony for 500 years until it was annexed by India in the 1960s. Goa is a beautiful part of India, southwestern state, renowned for its spectacular beaches, laid-back Portuguese lifestyle, and delicious food.

Now, about our trip: we arrived in Lisbon, excited to explore the homeland of Vasco da Gama. I find myself unsure of how to view Gama. Should I celebrate the man who risked his life for adventure and exploration in the vast, unknown world of India? Upon arriving, Lisbon felt similar to other major cities in India. It reminded me of Bangalore but with a Goan vibe. I felt at home. The air was crisp and slightly cool on the day we arrived. We opted for an airport taxi, getting a taxi was easy, and travel around the city—whether by taxi, bus, or rail—was very convenient and affordable, especially compared to other European cities.

We had rented the upscale apartment in Lisboa, it was clean and luxurious, offering a view of the Tagus River. It was a typical apartment on a hill, accessed by zigzagging lanes. We were about a mile from the city center, which was easily reachable via public transport. Like in many European countries, Portugal also faces immigration issues. According to an Uber driver from Bangladesh, the current government is conservative and less welcoming to new immigrants, even though many jobs are filled by immigrants, as locals tend not to take them(this has been contentious issue around the world).

Immigration has been intricate part of human civilizations since the beginning of time, when there were no borders, people were moving for food, betterment of life and survival. As civilizations evolved, the movement of people continued, driven by trade, exploration, conquest, and the search for opportunity. Today, immigration remains a fundamental aspect of global societies, shaping economies, cultures, and demographics.

The European lifestyle differs somewhat from the American way of life. The laid-back lifestyle here doesn't quite resonate with us Americans. Our mantra is to "live to work" rather than "work to live."

There are quite a few places to see in and around Lisbon, lets start with food. Food is integral part of Lisbon. Great food everywhere. Portuguese eat much more leisurely. If you go to the restaurant expect to sit there for couple of hours or more. Get a glass of wine and keep drinking until the evening. Lisbon is a seafood destination. Some of the best cuisines and good servicing seafood restaurants in Lisbon.

On Day 1, we visited the central main square to see the famous arch nearby and the monument in the center. The square was quite large and lined with numerous restaurants on either side. It was preparing for the Pride festival happening that weekend. We enjoyed a delicious seafood meal and then strolled around the main neighborhood, exploring the shops and restaurants.

Later, we hopped on the famous Tram 28, which has been operating since 1902. This iconic tram takes you to all the key points in the downtown area. We also visited a spot near the palace that offered beautiful views of the river and the surrounding landscape. Since Lisbon is built on a hill, there are great views from almost everywhere. We walked through the Alfama neighborhood, which was filled with shops and homemade food. June is the month of the Portuguese Sardine Festival, and the entire neighborhood was buzzing with a festive atmosphere, complete with lights, decorations, and grills cooking sardines in the narrow streets. We bought some souvenirs before heading back to relax. It was also UEFA soccer season, with matches being shown in every restaurant and shop.

In 1783, Lisbon suffered a devastating earthquake that left much of the city in ruins. During that time, the only food available was sardines. This is why sardines are celebrated and prominently featured during the June festival, with special displays and souvenirs paying homage to this tradition.

On Day #2, we visited Rossio Square, the second largest square in Lisbon, which is filled with shops. From there, we headed towards the church famously known as the Church with No Roof. The roof was lost during the earthquake, but the walls and arches have been well-preserved, as shown in the pictures we took.

We also experienced the Santa Justa Lift, which offers stunning views of the city. We took pictures from all around the terrace before heading to a restaurant where we enjoyed Italian food and Portugal's famous pastry, Pastel de Nata. The pastry is crispy with a creamy filling inside. After our meal, we walked around the square and watched some captivating street performances.

On Day #3, we took a trip to Sintra, which is about 45 minutes from Lisbon. Once we arrived, we had quite a bit of climbing ahead of us. It's important to remember that there is a lot of walking in European cities, which is one reason why you rarely see people who are obese. Walking is practically a necessity here, especially since maintaining a car is very expensive. Most homes are located on the hills or inclines, making walking essential.

Sintra is a quaint town located on a hill overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. The castle sits atop a mountain, and after exploring the area, we headed down to the town for lunch. We also visited the Initiation Well in the garden, where we marveled at the large circular structure along with several other intriguing designs. After much walking up and down the hilly streets of Sintra, it was time to head back.

As luck would have it, we returned just in time to catch the soccer game between Portugal and Turkey, which was being played in Germany. It was exciting to watch, and Portugal won 3-0! Later that evening, we went out for dinner, enjoying a lovely meal where we ordered sangria and sardines, savoring the Portuguese culinary experience. The food was absolutely delicious, and there were street performers right outside the restaurant, adding to the charm of our beautiful evening.

One Day #4

We wanted to finalize our trip by visiting the Belém Tower and the Monastery. After enjoying some scrumptious meals at a Mexican restaurant, we headed to the monastery. Unfortunately, the church was closed to the public due to a mass being held for locals, so we were unable to see the Vasco da Gama memorial. However, the guards informed us that the grounds were inside the church. After our visit to the monastery, we made our way to the Belém Tower. This historic tower was built to protect the city from invaders and pirates, serving as a watchtower. It was beautiful, as you can see in the attached picture. We strolled around the park, enjoying the scenery.

Just as we were about to leave, Arjun realized he had forgotten his phone while playing in the park. After stepping into the car, we noticed it was missing and quickly jumped out to run back to the park. Fortunately, a man sitting on a bench had found the phone and returned it to us. That was a heart-stopping moment for me—imagine losing your phone and, with it, your entire identity in this day and age!

The next day, we headed back home. Arriving at the airport, I reflected on the wonderful memories we made in Paris and Lisbon. Lisbon is a great city, but I’m not sure if I would return. During my short stay, I felt more like a Parisian than a Lisboan. Both cities are unique in their own ways, but my personal preference leans towards Paris because of its architecture, art, food, and overall lifestyle.

As I think about Vasco da Gama, 500 years later, and my journey to the homeland of the Portuguese colony of Goa, it's fascinating to consider how far we’ve come. I feel fortunate to have experienced these cities and the connections they foster. Regardless of what Vasco da Gama accomplished back in the day, viewing through his lens reveals that he significantly influenced the culture of Goa and Kerala. There is a lot of Portuguese influence in those regions. Just imagine if Vasco da Gama had drifted toward North or South America instead—history would indeed have taken a very different course.

While nobody can change history, we can learn from, appreciate, and even adore the events that have already occurred. Some of these events were undoubtedly negative, but they are a part of our shared past. It is this rich history and the connections it creates that draw me to these remarkable places which would otherwise be lost.

Thank you for reading my blog and following along!

Suman Manchireddy MD